Puno - Macchu Picchu - Puno

I was planning to ride to Cuzco but the Lonely Planet incorrectly lists the distance as 180km when it´s nearer 400km to Cuzco !, that clinched it for me, I decided to take the bus there and back, and leave my bike at a hotel.

Giant Steel Condor that overlooks Puno

On the way to Puno (from Chivay) I had to fill up from a "Man with a JerryCan" for the first time as there were no petrol stations. This requires some trust ! both in "quantities" and in exactly what you are getting sold ! but it worked out OK, a very 1920(s) experience I suppose !

Central Square - Cuzco

Cuzco was better than I expected, touristy, but not overwhelming ! great architecture (in the center) and pleasant climate too. I signed up for the "Salkantay Trek", a 5 day mountain trek (with tents & donks) which ends up, on the last day, at Macchu Picchu.
 For me, the trek was a mistake ! The mountain scenery is not up to the standard of the "Santa Cruz" trek in Huaraz and my heart is not in it, this is not helped by the fact I´m in a group of guys, just my luck, and the language is Portugese ! (most are Brazilian). I should have just made my own way to Macchu Picchu, which is not that hard to do. On the other hand, the trek is well organised, and the food is very good and plentiful (not what I´d heard for the cheaper option !!).

On the last day (of the trek) we are accomodated in a hotel in "Aguas Calientes". We got up at 3am and ran up to the checkpoint at the top, to queue with hundreds of others, just to be given the chance to walk up "Wayna Picchu" the peak next to Macchu Picchu. I only "scraped in" at No. 379  (only 400 people allowed per day !). At 06.30am the gate opens and in we rush, quite excited !

Initially there is thick mist, we cannot see anything ! A slight anti-climax ! But by 10am it has mostly cleared, and by the afternoon, it is properly clear. IT IS Spectacular ! It really does feel as if the city "faces the sky", it would not seem improbable if you were told that the original inhabitants could fly ! it´s completely different to anything in the valley below. You do, however, need the abilty to "filter out" the 5000 other tourists !  By the afternoon there are so many, that finding a shot, without anyone else in it, is getting hard....

Me at Macchu Picchu !

We depart "Aguas Calientes" on the evening "backpacker train". Everyone sleeps but I stay awake and enjoy it, it totally reminds me of my 1987 inter-railing trip across Europe (possibly because it is so slow !). 

 I´m then stuck in Cuzco for 2 days as "protesters" have blocked the road to Puno (this is no bad thing).