Down the Panamericana to Arequipa

Panamerican running "along" enormous dunes, those rectangular shapes are artic trucks !

Leaving Nazca was a surprise, there was nothing out there !!!  much reduced traffic compared to Lima - Ica, but nothing else, no towns and no petrol stations, I had not expected to be quite so isolated so soon. Fortunately, I´d filled up at the last one and made a mental note to carry more water.


I stopped for more petrol at Chala and decided to push onto Ocala (100km further on). 10km past Chala my backpack tried to escape, I had stupidly left one of my straps loose (of two), it had fallen off, oh sh**t !!! I then searched every inch of road back to Chala and could not find it, it was gone (and I never was able to replace it, properly). I stayed at a grotty hostel in Chala and cursed myself roundly !!


The next day the road had curves, it looped in and out of the sea cliffs and ran right alongside the Pacific in places and then along enormous dunes (see picture), it was beautiful, scenic and atmospheric, a great ride.


The next day is similar and I stop for the night at Camana where the road turns inland to Arequipa. There are no tourists in these towns, I just see their faces, on buses, as they speed past. The road climbs steeply and this is the first test for my tiny bike, can it lug me and all my stuff to 2200m ? (the altitude of Arequipa). I wanted to head straight for "Colca Canyon", I turn North towards Huambo but after 3km the road turns from apshalt to dirt and then from dirt to deep sand. My bike does not have the power for sand and I can´t ride 80km in first gear !  It´s a disappointment, and educational, as my map has this road is a proper B road ! there´s no road ! I head for Arequipa instead, but manage to watch the final of the World Cup (soccer) in a transport cafe, that was a bit of luck !


I arrive in Arequipa in the black dark with the bike making ominous "clackety" noises (to get to Arequipa you pass over a 3000m pass and I made it OK (?)). Nothing is sign posted and I ride around and around, asking the way constantly, til I find a nice little hospedaje, with bike storage, close to the "Plaza de Armas" (town square).

In the desert....